Monday, December 26, 2011

Hypnosis For Pain Management - Relieve Sciatic Nerves

!±8± Hypnosis For Pain Management - Relieve Sciatic Nerves

What I have experienced was out of this world, talking about sever pain sensations that were played immediately with every tinny single movement of my body. I went back and forth for months and months between one physician to another, and no one was sensitive to my pain, in fact I remember one of my physicians at that time, and she tolled me, that I was spoiled, and that in her opinion nothing was wrong with you... but my chiropractor Dr. Janine Angelotti, DC, BS, QME... did sympathize with my desperation regarding my pain, although this type of pain was a common thing as a result of a car accident, she suggested to do an MRI... Since in my X-Ray nothing was wrong, and as a chiropractor surgeon specializing in pain management and surgery's, she did treat me with combination of manual manipulation in the form of chiropractic adjustments and deep tissue work, coupled with physiotherapy modalities such as ultrasound, electrical stimulation, orthion tables, moist heat and cryotherapy. But nothing helped, in fact my pain was getting worse and worse with every treatment, and I was becoming less and less mobile, the pain had controlled my life, and it wasn't just a pain, and it was radiating to my legs....

What I have learned is that some people suffer from this temporary problem with mild to moderate pain, while for others life comes to a complete STOP! And that's where my life was....... like many other patient I have develop chronic pain after trying months of different treatments, and I fund little to a no consistent relief from my pain, there for I was unable to return to work, or to be active, I was in bed miserable, I could not walk again without the pain, I was controlled by a Monster named Pain!.

It is very scary, because many people who suffer from pain that controls their life usually departure all their life style, if it's from work, career, family function, and instead they live surrounded with pain.

Now, let me tell you a little bit about pain as a result of injury or aging... What is Sciatica? It is a pain that the patient feels along the sciatic nerve. The Sciatic nerve runs from their lower back, down towards the back of the leg, to the bottom of the foot, the sciatic nerve is the longest nerve in the body. Pain results when this nerve is irritated or compressed. The spinal sections it originates from include L4, L5 or S1.

Now after the MRI, It was found that my pain was caused by assumed sciatic nerve pressure from bulge, diagnosed Bulging L5 / S1 disc.

Any ways, I was suggested to do cortisone/steroids shots to relive the pain every two weeks and if that didn't help a surgery was a recommended.

But what I didn't know was how my mind functions.... something I become familiar with time...at the time I refused to get any injections, why? Because all my life I had needle phobia, the correct term for what I'm describing is Belonephobia, which is Greek for "Fear of Needles". And thanks to my phobia at the time, I am today a walking prove, pain free and yes free of Needle phobia.

Three days from the day I was recommended to do the steroid injection and the possibility of back surgery, I came home crying. (I was not able to walk; I had people help me taking me here and there) It was then when I was introduced to Alton Kamadon beloved Melchizedek Method of Healing and Ascension. By meditating and learning that I am in the control of my pain and not the opposite as it was before. Yes, I received a letter with a brochure from "The Malckizedek Method", being skeptic as I am; I said what do I have to lose? And I went to the four day workshop in Studio City, and I have healed in four days...No more bulging disc, no more pain, not even a sign in the MRI result... you can called it miracle, I call it the "Power of my mind"... and this is the good news my friend, It doesn't have to be living pain, every thing can be different and trust me, It doesn't matter how bad is your pain or what condition you may have been diagnosed with, I can assure you that you can feel better by learning how to bind the power of your mind, to "EnterYourMind".

We all know that our mind plays a very important role in pain and it's something you have to recognize and talk to when managing and healing your pain or your clients pain of any type.

As an Energy Healer and a Hypnotherapist specializing in pain management there are a lot of mind-body techniques that you can use to reduce or lessen the extent of pain you feel, followed with other positive benefits.

Such as improving you're: concentration, sleeping pattern, anxiety level, confidence, blood flow and circulation and of course being in control.

I have found techniques and exercises that are affective for your mind and body healing. Now let's discover why do we experience pain? We all know by now that pain is a warning sign that alert us to a trouble.

So what is the warning sign when I feel pain in my lower back? My body is telling me that something is not kosher, that it's not functioning correctly and that I need to talk to my part, to address it, to do X-Ray, and if it still hurt, do an MRI, so you know what part to address in the healing process. Believe me, the biggest mistake is when you ignore your pain.

Now, how to heal your pain? First let's learn the psychological factor about pain and how our emotional life style can affect the severity of our pain.

You may find out that your pain is worse when you are unhappy, hopeless, depressed, exhausted, wearing the wrong shoes, sleeping on the wrong mattress... this is why we have to be aware of your stress, beliefs and emotions, beacons this is what truly impacts the severity of your pain.

So let's start with the pain management with energy healing and hypnosis.

1. Focus on positive thoughts and affirmation to eliminate the negativity.

2. Stress reduction, self hypnosis, meditation, yoga, day dreaming, reiki, energy healing, dancing, singing, cold pads, and hypnotherapy with a professional for serious pain management.

3. Visualization of an orange sand paper rubbing against each other transferring the heat and the sensation into the painful area during hypnosis, meditation to scrub the pain a way...

4. Practice numb and cold tingling sensation to take your mind off the pain...

5. Body part therapy, when you visualize your body part and ask personal direct questions to the identified part.

6. Cleanse, delete, and fade childhood memories or resent trauma, such as abuse, losses, car accidents, injuries or illnesses.

7. Eating correctly and making sure fiber and water is part of your every day life style, since if you are constipated, the stole add pressure on to the nerves that can radiate more pain to the hurting area.

When you do that, you will each experience the negative emotional feelings associated with the traumatic pain from the past event, bring the images in front of you and start deleting it, or breathing into it, or erasing the feeling around the pain.

So all you need to do is to find a quite place, make sure you spend about 10 to 15 minutes each day to meditate, do yoga or use self hypnosis or call your Hypnotherapist who is specializes in pain management in case of medical condition related to your pain. Pain management with Energy Healing and hypnosis may take anywhere from four sessions to six sessions, then you can evaluate if you need more or done, every one is different.

Make sure you breathe in calmness and total relaxation, feeling your muscles and body becoming loose and limp in a way you have never felt before, and as you do that you will began to experience less pain...

Now, just in case you are not familiar with hypnosis, I want you to know that hypnosis is the performance of using a variety of physical and practice to help you to manifest your healing powers of the mind-body that can free you from pain or any other personal issues, do yourself good and contact your Hypnotherapist & Energy Healer..

You can contact me for your free consultation... local or long distance. Free your self from the nightmare of pain. Doreen Cohanim MM, C.Ht, HBCH

© 2008 Doreen Cohanim - All Rights Reserved.


Hypnosis For Pain Management - Relieve Sciatic Nerves

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Saturday, November 26, 2011

Replacing Your Old Drafty Wood Windows

!±8± Replacing Your Old Drafty Wood Windows

In many older homes, the windows still have the old style sash weights and pulleys and are single pane glass units. Not only are these type windows inefficient against heat loss, most are glazed with glazing putty that has cracked and dried from age and is most likely missing. Take a good look at the your windows and check the sash weight cords to see if they are broken as well. Missing or badly frayed sash ropes can be dangerous as it makes the window difficult to open and close and by using a prop stick to hold the window up in warm weather, you are inviting an accident when someone accidentally knocks out the stick and the window comes crashing down on tiny fingers perhaps or even worse a neck!

If your survey shows the windows to indeed be old style single pane windows it is time to replace them with new thermally efficient and much easier to operate units. Replacement windows come in all shapes and styles today. Most commonly seen are white or brown vinyl types as these are also the cheapest to buy. Many manufacturers will make custom colored units for your project. All brands are not the same however. The cheapest units feature one piece vinyl extrusion frames that will allow the exterior cold to transmit directly through the frame materials and emit cold into to the inside of your home. The inside of the frame is about the same temperature as outside. Brrrrrr. A better quality window will have what is called a "thermal break" located approximately halfway through the frame made of insulating material that will stop the cold at that point. Much better idea. Glass types. Again there are many choices. Insulating glass which consists of two panes of glass with an inert gas in between is far better than single pane windows anytime.

A step up, is when the inside of the glass is coated with what is called a "low E" coating. This lets the suns heat radiate into the home but won't let it go back out. It is a few dollars more but with today's energy costs for heating fuels, it is well worth it. Down side? Most vinyl windows are manufactured only in white or brown colors. Some companies produce custom colored vinyl but again these are more money. A second type of replacement window is made with a vinyl clad exterior and an exposed wooden interior. This provides a maintenance free outside that you do not have to paint and allows painted interior side that you can match the color or perhaps stain, to match the decor of your room. Some companies produce these types in colored exteriors as well and I have seen red, green, blue but remember the windows will be there for a very long time! You cannot change the outside color once they are installed. Lastly, there are all wood replacement windows available but with all the other options, unless you love to paint outside on a ladder they are not the best choice. An exception would be a historic restoration where matching the window style is critical. Even wood windows come today with thermal breaks and low-E glass. Vinyl replacement windows fit right into your existing window openings.

Another great advantage to replacement windows is the window sashs tilt inside for easy cleaning. No more hanging out windows or balancing on ladders. Most windows have two slide type locks on the top of each sash and by simply sliding the sash up a few inches and pushing on the locks, a slight tug on the sash top, tips it into the room for cleaning. When done, simply push the sash back into it's track. HINT: When cleaning these windows, pull and tip the lower sash inside first but clean the top window first and replace it into it's frame. This helps prevent dripping your cleaner on the bottom window. All vinyl windows I have found so far also feature a pull out tab lock on the upper sash on each side to prevent the lower sash from being lifted more than a few inches when the tabs are in the open position. Their use is twofold. Windows can be left open a few inches for ventilation without worrying about someone getting in from the outside. Of course if they really want in, they will simply break the glass. These tabs are not burglar proof. The second and more important reason for the tabs to me, is to allow you to leave the window open for ventilation but small children cannot climb out the window and suffer a nasty fall. All windows also come with one or two sash locks for home protection. Depending on the width of your window, the manufacturer decides how many locks the sash requires for the best protection. Lastly, many windows also feature an adjustment screw that allows you to stiffen the amount of pull the window requires to slide it up and down. The window is adjusted in the factory and seldom needs further adjustments.

ORDERING WINDOWS- Ok, we have decided to replace the windows. With a writing pad, pen and measuring tape making up you order is quite easy. You are going to take a minimum of 5 measurements for each window opening. HINT: Do not assume two windows are the same size because they look the same. Measure them all! Older windows were hand built and can vary 1/2 to 3/4 of an inch. If your too big, you wasted a window, if you are too small, you will have to re-trim the opening and end up with an unsightly finished product. Ok, you must measure the width of the opening three times. Once at the bottom, once in the middle and once at the top. You measure inside the wood parting bead where the old sash rides against the frame. DO NOT measure parting bead to parting bead. You want your new window frame to slide into the old frame. Hence three measurements. This will tell you the narrowest part of your old frame and this will be the size you order your window. Example:

Bottom = 32 1/2"

Middle=32 1/4"

Top = 32 3/8".

You would order your window to fit an 32 1/4" opening thus allowing the window to slide into the opening. The same idea works for the height as well. Measure the left side and right sides of your opening from the high point on the sill to (where the bottom sash sits when closed) and the top (where the top sash sits when closed).Take the smaller measurement of the two and that is your height Number the window openings as you measure them so if there are different sizes, you will know where they go when you get them. With all the measurements is hand, your off to the store. Once you have picked the style, color and price you want, the salesman will take the order. HINT: Ask the salesman for a delivery date. Try to get him/her to put in down on the receipt so you can keep track of the order. Depending on the time of year, windows can take weeks to arrive. No one will guarantee a date but this gives you some idea of when to start checking on them. Check the order form very carefully before you order or give a deposit check. Once ordered, they cannot be changed. Look for quantity, color, sizes and style. If your existing home has what are called 6 over 1 windows (6 small panes in upper sash, one large pane in lower sash), you may want to match that style. Windows do come in 1 over 1, 4 over 1, 4 over 2, 4 over 4, 1 over 1, you get the idea. There are countless combinations to choose from. I ordered several windows for a customer once and specified 2 over 2 style. The windows came with the muttin bar (the piece that separates the panes of glass) in a horizontal position not vertical. I had never seen that before but since I had not specified it exactly, the company would not take them back. Whatever type you order, make sure your order slip says that is what you are getting. Now sit back and wait for the windows.

PREPARATION-Tools required-Measuring tape, pencil, 2' and 4' levels if possible, razor knife, pry bar or "cats paw'", caulk gun, Phillips screwdriver, paper towels and nail punch. SAFETY GLASSES AND WORK GLOVES! Materials required-Windows, 4,6 and 8 penny bright finish nails, small tube wood putty, approximately 2 tubes of high grade exterior caulk in a color to match your window per window (depending on size), small Phillips wood screws, loose fiberglass insulation.

Remove all interior window blinds, shades and curtains and put to the side. Very carefully, using your razor knife, cut along the interior window trim and the wall if necessary and along the trims on the inside of the window frame. This will help prevent cracking the wood when you remove it. You are going to re-install these trims. Carefully and slowly, pry the trims loose watching for concealed nail heads (especially common style with a big head) that will crack your trims if you pry too hard. Most of the time the finish nails will simply pull through the trim and you can remove them later. Lay each piece of trim directly to the side of where you removed it. You cannot use it elsewhere. It won't fit! Remove or pull all the nails out at this point in time. We don't want a nail injury from a rusty protruding nail. With all the trims removed, look in the bottom corner of the frame and you will find a small wooden "door" held in place with a screw. The screw may be covered with paint so you may have to dig around a little. Doors are usually 6-8" high so start there. Remove the screw allowing you to pry the door out and reveal the inside of the window frame. Now lift the lower sash all the way up. Look inside the door, you should be able to see the end of the sash weight. If not, don't worry, the sash cord is just short.

Now using your pry bar, remove the wooden parting bead holding the sash in place. It runs the entire height of the opening and looks about 1/2" square. You will more than likely break it into a million pieces. You are not going to use this again anyway. Once one side is out, the sash will slide out of the opening. Hang onto it! Carefully remove the sash cord embedded in the pocket on top of the sash. The rope may be held in place with a small nail. Just remove it. You can let go of the cord as the knot will stop it at the pulley. Lay the sash to the side. It is junk. Now remove the second parting bead. Again, carefully pull the sash cord in far enough to cut the knot from the rope. When you let go this time the sash weight will crash to the bottom of the little door you opened. Reach in and remove it. Also junk. Continue until you have removed the inside parting beads (do not remove the outside two as the new window will rest against them as a stop), four sash weights, four pulleys, etc. leaving you a clean opening. Scrape any loose paint or gunk built up in the openings. Here's where you get to install some of that loose insulation. Stuff the pockets and any openings in the frames. The use of the expanding foam products is possible but be very careful. It does have the ability to actually bend or bow the wood when it expands. There are now non-expanding types which you could also try. The goal is to leave no openings where outside air can infiltrate into your home causing drafts and loss of heat!

INSTALLATION-

It is helpful if you have a helper at this point to work outside while you work inside. Test fit your window unit. It should slide all the way into the opening, stopping at the outside parting bead. If it fits, you measured correctly! Now after removing the window, place a good bead of exterior caulk on the inside of the exterior parting beads on both the sides and the top piece. This will seal the new window to the existing frame. Make sure the vinyl window expander is sitting on top of the window before putting it into the opening. It looks like a piece of channel, the same length as the width of the window and is usually shipped in place. Carefully slide the new window into the opening making sure it makes a tight fit against the outside stops. Once in, using your levels, check to make sure the new window is level and plumb in the opening. This is important! If it is out of level or plumb the window will not close or lock properly.

In each side of the window jams, the manufacturer leaves a small window to allow you to insert the screws that will secure the window in the opening. Use the screws that come with the window. Be careful when installing the screw you do not pull the frame out of level or square by inserting the screws TOO TIGHT! Use some paper towels to remove any caulk that squeezed out of the exterior parting beads. You don't want caulk all over you. Have a garbage bag handy for used towels. Check out the window. See how it looks. Is it straight, level and plumb? Operate the sash to make sure they slide up and down easily, lock and tip in as they should. Some windows have side jamb adjustment screws that allow you to add a little pressure against the sash to "tighten" them up. Do so slowly. You will also receive 4 small plastic covers to go over the holes for the mounting screws. These are always a bear to install but put them in. It makes the opening cleaner and keeps out small hands. Next we will finish the exterior. In your window kit, you also received a metal trim piece approximately 3/4 x 3/4" angle that matches the color of the window. This piece will close the opening between the new window and the sill. Remember there is no parting bead located here. Fill the space with some loose insulation and place the angle into the opening sliding it under the window. I have seen them installed angle in or out and it is really whatever looks best and fits the sill the best. Screw the angle in place on the window and the sill with 4-6 screws. Caulk the angle neatly to assure no rain water may enter. Now slide the top expander channel upwards until it is in firm contact with the house exterior trim. Screw this to the window frame on each side. Again, neatly caulk the channel to assure no rain, drafts or critters may enter. The outside is done.

The interior trim is slightly more work. Make sure all the nails have been removed. Starting with the top interior head piece, place the trim in the opening and see if it still fits. Most often, the vinyl window is deeper than the original windows making the trim now too wide. Carefully mark the trim and cut to the correct width making sure that when the face or casing trim is installed it provides a tight fit. The window sill comes next and the remaining two sides. Now the casing pieces can be reinstalled. These should fit right back where they came out without cutting. If you are careful you will have a neat finished opening with only the nail holes to putty and touchup the paint. Once again operate the window to make sure nothing has changed during trimming and if it works right, move on to the next window! There are many types of accessory vinyl windows available today that can be ordered to fit in an existing opening. For example a Mini-Greenhouse unit that can be ordered to fit in your existing window opening ca provide a great place to raise herbs in the winter time..

Words of advice:

1. In many building department jurisdictions, if you are installing replacement window in the same size framed openings, a permit is not required. Always check with them before you start.

2. Old glass can be very brittle. Handle it with great care. It can shatter and splatter when broken. Place all broken glass in a secure container. Not in a plastic or paper bag. Always wear a pair of good heavy work gloves and safety glasses when handling glass.

3. Dispose of the old sash as soon as possible. You do not want it sitting around where a child or pet might come in contact with it.

4. Always wear safety glasses when working with power tools or when flying chips or debris can cause an injury. Enjoy your new windows!


Replacing Your Old Drafty Wood Windows

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Wednesday, November 23, 2011

Part 3 - A Princess of Mars by Edgar Rice Burroughs (Chs 19-28)

Part 3. Classic Literature VideoBook with synchronized text, interactive transcript, and closed captions in multiple languages. Audio courtesy of Librivox. Read by Mark Nelson. Playlist for A Princess of Mars by Edgar Rice Burroughs: www.youtube.com

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Saturday, November 19, 2011

Help Alleviate Pain With Heating Pads

!±8± Help Alleviate Pain With Heating Pads

If you have suffered a sports injury of some kind then on then you may well be advised to apply some form of heat to the injured area. Use of heating pads can provide steady, even heat to sore and strained body parts in a safe, effective way. Most often, the heating pad takes the form of electric heating pad which is plugged into a wall socket, turned on and will begin to warm up. However there are many other variations of heating pads can be found on the market today, some designed for certain uses and others offered in a variety of sizes. Some examples would include moist heating-pads, electric heat pads and the microwaveable heat pad.

One of the best features to seek out is an adjustable temperature control, generally with low, medium and high settings. This will allow you to comfortably use the heating pad with just the right level of warmth for your needs. An automatic shut off is also something to consider before shopping for heating-pads, some pieces feature an electronic guard to prevent the heating pad being left on all night after the user has fallen asleep.

The reason that heating pads are effective at alleviating painful symptoms is that the heat increases the blood flowing to the area which encourages the body's natural healing process to speed up. It is for this reason that heating pads are recommended to be used as part of a recovery process for muscle strains, or cramping, or possibly even back pain.


Help Alleviate Pain With Heating Pads

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